Quintessence @ Tokyo (Unfinished)

Price: $$$$$

Atmosphere: quiet, peaceful, simple decor…it's all about the food!

Attire: semi-formal recommended

Languages: French, English, Japanese (all staff have good command of English, several speak fleunt French, including the chef)

Reservation: Yes (reservation hotline is open for only 3.5 hrs daily: 09:30~11:00, 15:30~17:00)

Awards/Accolades: 3 Michelin Stars (2008-2011)

All my fellow foodies should know, rule no. 1 for all 3-Michelin-starred restaurants: make your reservations 2 months ahead, or the chances are, you'll end up missing what could have been the best meal of your life. For Quintessence, it is a completely different story. In order to secure a dinner reservation, you need to call the hotline exactly 2 months prior to the day you're dining at Quintessence, start dialing at 9:30 sharp when the line opens, and cross your fingers that you'll get to speak to anyone before the line closes. With some luck, you'll be able to make a reservation if you call nonstop for a day or two. Well, tasting delicious food calls for serious effort, and this is one meal you'll never ever forget, and definitely worth your effort!

Located in the quiet residential neighborhood of Shirokanedai (白金台), Quintessence is barely visible with its understated decor on the outside. Walking up the marble steps leading towards the entrance, you are warmly greeted by the host who guides you through the glass corridor and into the small foyer of the restaurant. While the waiters are busy preparing the table, the host checks your coats and asks you to rest for a minute or two on the comfortable couch next to the reception desk. 

The dining area is not spectacular, but very neat and clean. The room is decorated with various shades of wooden-colored furnitures, evoking a sense of calm, comfort, and demure elegance. The restaurant is of a decent size, with an estimated capacity of 25-30 guests.

The man behind the scene, chef Shuzo Kishida, is a talented and dedicated chef striving to push the boundary of modern French cuisine with a touch of the essence of Japanese cuisine. Having trained under the legendary chef Pascal Barbot of "L'Astrance" in Paris for 3 years, working up to the position of sous-chef (second chef in command) within a short period of time, Kishida showed great potential and the rare capability to lead a world-class kitchen. At the tender age of 37, he has recently succeeded the previous management company and become the owner-chef of Quintessence, wowing guests who have traveled a thousand miles to have a taste of his culinary excellence.

Dinner consists of 13 courses: 9 savory dishes, 1 pre-dessert, and 3 dessert dishes. Chef mixes locally-grown fresh products with top quality produce from various parts of the world, using unique styles of cooking to preserve and present to guests the best flavor of each ingredient. Quintessence keeps a record of your every visit, including every single dish you've had, so you will be able to try something new next time. On my most recent trip to Quintessence, I've had the opportunity to try chef's latest creations for Summer 2011. Here is the simple outline of the menu:

(click the above to view full-size menu)

The course started off with an amuse-bouche of Sablé Bottarga, a bite-size canapé consisting of thinly sliced cured fish roe from Sardinia placed on top of a sablé cookie. Bottarga is the Mediterranean version of karasumi (カラスミ) or wu-yu-tse (烏魚子), a delicacy that Asians should be quite familiar with. Most people don't know that, cooking bottarga well and getting the right texture is actually very difficult. Chef Kishida has skillfully preserved the exotic and pungent flavor while keeping it soft and smooth. The crunchy texture of the sablé matches the soft and salty taste of the bottarga perfectly, a perfect start to the evening full of culinary surprises.

Sablé Bottarga

The second dish is Gaspacho Pétillante, a straight-forward gaspacho with a bit of sparkling effect, light and refreshing.

Gaspacho Pétillante

The next course is a signature of Quintessence: Assaisonement. It is one of the few dishes that will always be served every time you visit the restaurant. It's consisted of goat milk bavarois, olive oil, lily roots and macadamia nut slices, with a sprinkle of sea salt. It is an absolutely beautiful dish that showcases the creativity and imagination of chef Kishida. The sea salt, top-quality olive oil, and the super creamy yet light goat cheese blends cohesively together and melts in your mouth within seconds. An explosion of airy flavors and aromas makes you feel as if you're walking on clouds. Lily roots and macadamia nuts add a delicate taste and a soft crunch, enhancing the depth and layers of this sophisticated creation.